Aix-en-Provence

We drove to Aix-en-Provence with visions of lavender-laden fields and vineyards and all kinds of lovely rural, bucolic scenes. What we didn't expect was a headache-inducing, traffic-clogged city.


French Graffiti in Aix-en-Provence

We drove around the central "rotunda" several times in a state of complete confusion. Where were the little streets that the map suggested? No matter how hard we tried, we simply couldn't find our way into the labyrinth of lanes that led to our supposed hotel.

Before long, we got lucky. I happened to see a little red car take a left off of the Cours Mirabeaux (the main road), drive up over the sidewalk, pass within inches of some outdoor cafe patrons, and squeeze into what looked like an impossibly narrow alley. Without thinking, I just followed his lead. We found ourselves driving down a "road" that left about a foot or two of space on either side of our little rented Hundai Getz.


The narrow streets!

We found out later that most of these little roads allow for two-way traffic! However, only one car can pass at a time, so this must make for lots of backing up, gesturing, swearing, etc. All around us were little shops, cafes, bakeries, pastry shops, meat markets, and of course, pedestrians.


Patisserie!

We drove in a state of utter disbelief and total disorientation until finally, somehow, we found ourselves in the tiny courtyard of the Hotel Manoir. We parked and gasped and wiped our brows.


In the courtyard of Hotel Manoir

We spent the next two days strolling the streets of Aix-en-Provence. What a wild and wonderful place!


Enjoying some quiche with jambon outside the Hotel Ville!

We ate the best meal of our trip here at Chez Denis. The filet mignon was RARE and delicious! The cream sauce was light and divine! The creme brulee was unctious and mollifying!


Our favorite restaurant!

We also enjoyed the farmer's market that runs each weekday morning in the Place Richelm.


The open-air market in Place Richelm

We peeked into bookstores, clothing stores, trinket stores, record stores, shoe stores. And of course we saw some very old churches and palaces, etc. They're everywhere! After our rather harrowing entry, we ended up loving Aix-en-Provence.


A couple of baguettes for the road. Au revoir Aix-en-Provence!

RARE SIGHTING! (a guard rail in the alps)

We saw lots of white cows, like this one . . .

View of Chamonix from a mountain road

A fountain, Mont Blanc, and a very happy tourist. . .

Chamonix

Blinded by cheese in the alps

My favorite part of France

Oh my land! It strikes me as very bizarre that I am back here writing, because I had convinced myself that we would either die in a plane crash, lose control of our vehicle on the guard-rail-less roads through the alps, or fall so deeply in love with France that we would only return to pack up the cats and books for our new European apartment. But here we are! And we're glad to be back.

France! Oh France! It was so exactly what I thought it would be like that it almost seemed like a parody of a French textbook. For example, on our first day, as we were walking to my friend Kelly's apartment in Versailles, we were passed on the narrow cobble stone street by a person riding a bike with a couple of baguettes in his arm. I mean, that's REALLY French, isn't it?

I think if I started to attempt a day-by-day account of our happenings, it would take all morning. So I'll go over one of my highlights, and then Ken will blog his highlights.

I loved, loved, loved a small alpine town called Chamonix. It is nestled in the alps with astounding views of Mont Blanc from almost any point in town. After having read how Mont Blanc inspired almost all the English Romantic poets, I totally understood why. It is huge, stately, sublime, and refreshing! The town relies on skiers and hikers--which are both scarce in May. So other than a few other tourists, we had the town to ourselves. When we arrived Monday evening, it was misty and cloudy. We could catch glimpses of Mont Blanc between clouds, but it was tough. I was a wee bit disappointed. But we found a great little restaurant serving traditional Savoy food (translated, it means lots of different ways to eat lots of different cheeses). We were seated at a table that looked directly out onto Mont Blanc! And somehow the clouds had cleared, and it loomed bright white against the darkening sky as we ate. Our meal was funny. I think I misunderstood (my French is worse than I thought) the menu-- and what I thought would be a salad with bacon, ended up being a bowl of bubbling cheese over bread with bacon on the top. So I got one part right . . . it was sooooooo freaking good. The cheese really and truly is more flavorful over there! We were right on the border of Italy and Switzerland, so maybe the cheese was Swiss--I don't know. Soon our entree (cheese fondue) arrived! And since we ordered a "menu" that included dessert, we were treated to even more dairy! Chocolate Mousse, Fromage Blanc, or Ice-cream. Somehow, my tummy didn't even mind. Anyway, from that point forward, I used my dictionary more carefully when ordering food.

When we woke up the next morning and opened our windows (the windows there don't have screens, and they open like french doors) we were astounded to find that the miserable weather that had been predicted never showed up! It was clear and sunny! We had a fantastic breakfast at the hotel (with yet another astounding view of the alps) and spent the rest of the morning drinking in the mountain air and absorbing as many alpine vistas as we could...

THAT was my favorite part of the trip! Our drive out of that village-- well, let's just say it would have been better if I had NOT translated every cautionary road sign we encountered.

I'll blog more on another part of the trip soon!

I was very glad, however to return to 2 happy and healthy little kitties. Oh how I missed my cats!

playing hookey

One seminar paper down, one to go . . . and today Ken and I took the first day off we've truly taken since my birthday! We woke up and decided that we MUST go shopping for some spring things in Northampton. The bad thing about being in grad school is that we're very often working all day on Saturdays and Sundays . . . the really good thing is that means that occasionally we can shop on a Tuesday when the stores are empty!

Both of our wardrobes were in sad shape... now we both have some decent footwear and some things to refresh our closets. PTL for H&M! I finally got some Chacos... not yet sure if I'm convinced . . . so I won't wear them outside till I'm sure.

A few nights ago we had the woman who will be housesitting for us while we're away over for pizza. We are REALLY glad that she'll be here to keep the little kitties company while we're off gallivanting in France. She's reading/studying for exams, and needs a quiet place to stay.

Now I must face my next seminar paper. Must. Face. Paper.

OH! Before I start the paper-- (whooops, way too many things start that way) --we found a Dar Williams songbook today. This might inspire me to learn to play the guitar... but if not, now we have the music so K. can play and I can sing along. In private with the windows shut, of course.